Thursday, September 26, 2013

Decided, glass and no hatch!

I made up my mind and may thanks to commenters and the kind folks over at Wooden Boat Forum for their input.

First I'm going to use 4oz fiberglass cloth to cover the areas under the floor. From the bottom up to about 6-7 inches is glassed in. This should be more than adequate to keep any moisture damage in check.
4 oz fiberglass ready for epoxy on the keel backbone side. 
Then I covered the bottom of the floor with 4oz fiberglass cloth.

Floor bottom covered in 4oz fiberglass

After much internal debate I decide to K.I.S.S. The interior glass on this compartment is going to keep it rot free for may decades, probably beyond the point when the pine box I'm in the under the ground has rotted away. Unless there is exterior damage, in which case I'll just cut out a hatch when I need it.

The floor wasn't cut tightly to fit, it's really not necessary to have very tight fits since there needs to be room for the epoxy, so I used a couple wedges to get the sides bulging a slight bit to give a nice fair curve. I had spaced apart the hull sides when I installed the stringers but it didn't hold most of the curve so I put the spacer back in then the wedges.

Dry fitting aft floor
I'm happy with the dry fit of the floor, but no epoxy fillets today. It is late September and the maple leaves are turing beautiful colors, also the outside temps are routinely hitting the low 40s at night.  The garage has no central heat so the temp has been easing down and now it hit 60F. It was after noon and I didn't what to turn on the portable heater since it would take a couple hours to warm things up. So tomorrow I kick on the LPG heater early.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Hatches in the floor/sole

Floor half width doesn't leave much room for an inspection hatch.
I've been managing to get an hours or so every day working on Tiki. Mostly nothing too exciting just installing stringers and stiffeners and many yards of fillets. I've gotten probably 90% of the fillets done. These include 1 inch radius fillets on each side of the bulkheads and 1/4" fillets on the tops of all the stringers and stiffeners.

I did get a little to zealous with fillets and made some where bunk supports will be installed:(

Next on the agenda is the Floor/Sole. The plans call for a solid floor permanently in place. The volume is then vented via small holes in the backbone and in BH4 and finally a hole with a 90 deg angle fitting in BH5. Then a hose brings the hose up near/above the waterline.

Problem is that I've seen Tikis with lower hull rot and I believe this is due to condensation that can collect in this "sealed" volume. There are about 4 layers of fiberglass on the exterior but in the interior there are many areas only covered by 2 coats of epoxy according to plans.

I don't like volumes that I can access and inspect so I'm thinking about couple flush hatches in the floor to allow annual inspection and to let the volume air out in the off season. Problem is the design. I'd like to be completely flush so feet or supplies won't catch on anything. And they need to be watertight.

Any ideas will be appreciated! Thanks